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Building this kind of performance is actually quite simple! The vapor barrier, insulation, framing, and sometimes even the electrical are completed in one step. The wall is built with no cavities or seams to seal and caulk.
The cornerstone of our proven system is to build the walls with a product called ICF's. This stands for Insulated Concrete Form. This method of framing walls is gaining a significant amount of market share quite quickly--and it's not hard to understand why!
There is a certain fear of the unknown, but this is completely unnecessary for ICF construction. You will find that building an ICF structure is quite simple--with less hassle than a stick framed, steel, or masonry structure. Follow along as we build an ICF home. Click the photo above to see a LEED for homes project we built.
Getting started--blueprints. A phone call or even a meeting with us and your architect to discuss how best to incorporate these energy efficient features into your project while keeping construction costs in line.
The wall thickness of an ICF is greater than most other wall types, so if your plan is not drawn for ICF’s, you must decide if you want the exterior or the interior dimensions to remain the same. Our above grade wall thickness will range from 9" to 11.75", depending on the form chosen. We recommend converting your plans to the appropriate thickness so that you are not disappointed with room sizes, and to eliminate any possibility of mistakes. This is just one thing that will be discussed and determined at our initial meeting.
The estimate. Once you have the blueprints, R-Value will estimate the project. We will schedule a meeting with you (if not done before) to discuss various options. When a contract is signed, the project is scheduled on a first-come, first-served basis. R-Value will then run a heat loss/gain analysis on the structure which takes into account the thermal mass, low air infiltration, and superb insulation of the ICF wall. The results of this analysis are used by the HVAC contractor to design the necessary system.
Our estimates come with several choices: Standard, Premium, and Ultimate. There are several other packages for specific desires. Our Standard package includes competetive materials, specifications, and service. The Premium and Ultimate packages go up from there. By having more choices, you can rest easy knowing you are getting exactly what you want without paying for more.
Here is a sample of the packages, but these are updated regularly. You will receive a current copy with your estimate.
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Package specifications and comparison
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Standard
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Premium
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Ultra-Premium
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| Footing: size |
16" wide x 8" thick for all footings, except multi level ICF homes which will be 20" wide by 11" thick. |
Same as Standard. |
2" wider than Standard, and 1" or 2" thicker. |
| Footing: reinforcement |
No continuous, verticals not more than 72" apart. |
Adds 2 continuous #4 bar, verticals not more than 48" apart. |
Same as Premium, but vertical spacing decreases to 24" |
| ICF wall |
6" wall below grade*, 4" wall above grade*. Reinforced to withstand 120 m.p.h. winds and local soil conditions per manufacturer's recommendations, or the prescriptive method. |
Same as Standard, but upgrades to a 6" wall above grade, and adds tapertop block to top of wall, adds transition area coating. |
Same as Premium, but reinforced to withstand 150 m.p.h. winds, and substitutes Helix for reinforcement. |
| Waterproofing and Moisture control |
Spray-on Watchdog waterproofing w/1 year warranty. |
Platon waterproofing w/ 5 year warranty* Adds stone and 4" sock tile to exterior of footing. 6 mil vapor barrier under basement slab. |
Same as Premium, but adds Watchdog and Platon waterproofing*, adds at least 4" of stone under slab, interior tile, and a vapor barrier under the footing. Upgrades to a 10 mil vapor barrier. |
| Slabs |
3.5" thick, no reinforcement, no sealers, 1 or 2 time finish |
3.5" thick, adds fibermesh reinforcement to interior slabs, and #10 wiremesh to exterior slabs. Harder finish. |
Same as premium, but upgrades to 4" thick and adds a sealer or curing agent. |
| Energy control |
r-22 walls |
r-22 walls, r-10 under basement slab |
r-27 walls, r-10 under basement slab |
| EIFS package |
Window bucks set back from outside edge, gaps > 1/8" filled. |
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*Thicker where recommended by manufacturer. |
* Must be backfilled and compacted in <24" lifts. |
* Must be backfilled and compacted in <24" lifts. |
HVAC This is often overlooked by homeowners and builders, but is a vital part of a high performance home. The phrase to remember is: "Build tight, ventilate right". Don't forget the "V" in HVAC. HVAC contractors must be interviewed to determine if they understand and implement cutting-edge technologies. Most homes unnecessarily pump conditioned air (read:$$$) out through bathroom and kitchen vent fans. Installing an energy recovery ventilator (ERV), using computer modeling to size the HVAC units and ducting, and flow testing/balancing are a must with an ICF home. There is a significant difference between HVAC companies, and it pays to do your homework. We have seen enough ICF homes lose much of their energy performance with poorly designed and implemented HVAC systems. Don't pinch pennies here!
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Breaking ground! The next step is to dig the hole and pour the footing. Depending on your specific requirements, the footing is generally wider and thicker than standard, because the wall is heavier than standard, and we want to eliminate any possible settling of the wall.
Rapid progress. As we construct the walls, conduit and electrical boxes are installed; as are rough window and door openings. Any utility penetrations through the wall are sleeved in at this time. These might include: well and septic, electrical, HVAC, and exterior hose bibs. When the wall is pre-straightened, we begin to fill the forms with concrete; which is usually placed in two consecutive lifts with a concrete pump. Then the top of the wall is leveled off, anchor bolts or rod is placed, and the walls are straightened for the final time. The next day the bracing is removed and the walls are thoroughly inspected and cleaned.
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This is actually fun! Once the bracing is removed, the basement floor is poured if it wasn’t previously done. Then the subfloor is installed. This goes in as it typically would if wood frame is to be used for the next level; but most homeowners opt to use ICF’s for their main level walls too. Then the subfloor is installed by one of several methods mentioned here. Many homeowners enjoy watching the quick progress that can be made at this point, and the fun that we have doing it.
Rinse, lather, repeat After the subfloor is installed, the process is repeated as many times as necessary to finish the structure, finally followed by setting of the trusses.
Look at me! Trusses are attached to the top of the wall as normal; or as an option using individual hurricane straps for each truss. This provides a very strong connection that resists tornado and hurricane-force winds much better than is possible with a conventionally framed wall.
I can see clearly now. Now windows should be installed. Windows are a significant portion of heat loss in a building. Many people don't know this, but an Energy Star rated window for northern climates has a maximum u-value of .35. This is an r-value of only 2.87! While this window is pretty good as far as windows goes, you can easily see that there is room for improvement, and that installing a premium product is a very good idea here.
Standard jamb extensions will not work here, due to the thickness of the walls. This is an area of extra cost that should be planned for. Most of our customers trim the opening out with painted 1x MDF, but some choose to return the drywall into the window to save some costs, and a few use stained hardwood 1x.
Bring it on At this point, the home is "in the dry" ready for whatever the weather can dish out. Temporary heat will be very effective for those building in the winter (just remember to vent!) Electrical, plumbing, drywall, and siding can all be installed in much the same manner as with a wood house.
The building envelope A common mistake made now is to hire the cheapest guy to put insulation in the ceiling, but this is like an astronaut in his space suit that swaps his helmet for a ball cap! You have worked so hard to acheive an airtight and highly insulated wall system, don't throw away half the benefit of the ICF wall by using poor insulation in the ceiling!! There are superior methods and materials that complement the thermal mass, low air-infiltration, and exceptionally high r-values of the ICF walls. Also consider using insulation under the basement floor. There are several excellent methods to consider here, we will discuss them with you.
Radiant heat If radiant heat is to be used, R-Value can pour a 2” slab over the tubing on the main level—there is no need to hire another contractor to install gyp-crete! An even better option is to use Lite-Deck to form the floors. We will also use a combination vapor barrier/reflective insulation below the basement floor. Any type of heat system can be used, but if radiant is desired, it is very cost-effective to use a boiler/geothermal heat pump to provide domestic hot water, radiant heat in the lower level, and install a fan coil in the Energy Recovery Ventilator for the main level.
More information
"I hope the rest of the house goes as well as the ICF walls"--Ed Redies, an R-Value customer
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